This blog post
by Chef Michael Formichella describes one of the key outcomes he learned from
some focus groups conducted among frequent consumers of grass-fed beef. He learned that (emphasis his):
There were several notable comments passed by all
three groups that I wanted to expound upon. It revolves around trust.
He hit the nail on the head with this one. Although it is rarely discussed in this way,
our modern “food wars” almost all disseminate over the issue of trust. People (sometimes for good reason) distrust
agribusinesses, and as a consequence, the technologies they develop. This leads to calls for things like organic
food – which people then distrust because it turns out that organics are not
all they are often touted to be. Much of
the local food movement can, in my opinion, be explained by an effort by some
to interact more closely with those they believe are more trustworthy.
What bothers me about the folks I’ve called the food police or the food elite is that they have fostered, and even encouraged, this
atmosphere of distrust to promote their own books, restaurants, and political
agendas. I do not deny that some of the
distrust of modern production agriculture is deserved, but as someone who has
grown up around “large” farmers and people working in agribusinesses, the caricature
that is painted of them cannot withstand close scrutiny. I strongly suspect that the guys running
5,000 acre farms are no more or less “trustworthy” than the muckraking
journalists who vilify them.
Economists don’t much talk about it, but trust is perhaps
the linchpin in the engine of economic growth.
It allows specialization and development of comparative advantage. It facilitates trade. It creates environments in which there is
some reasonable expectation that success from investments in research and technology
will be rewarded. (There is a really
nice podcast between Russ Roberts and David Rose on Econ Talk on this and related issues if you want more).
So, when I hear and read people implicitly saying “don’t
trust any farmer but your local farmer” or “don’t trust anything developed by
Monsanto or Cargill or ADM” or “don’t trust the research from Land Grant Universities”
or “don’t trust supermarkets,” I take pause.
You’re setting yourself up for a pretty meager existence if
the only person you can trust is yourself.
Locavores are willing to extend that trust to the few people who happen
to live in close proximity to them. But,
I’m hoping for more because the more people you can trust, the better your life
is going to be. I happen to believe in
the power of firms trying to maintain a reputation, the power of consumers
acting with their wallets and feet, the threat of litigation, and sometimes
plain self interest tempered by market forces to help foster a climate of
trustworthiness. Clearly, not everyone
agrees. But, what I’d like to see is
less inward-looking thinking (i.e., trust only your neighbor) and more thinking
on how production agriculture can appear to be (and actually become) more
trustworthy.