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How safe is the poultry you buy?

 

All told, Mr. Millman and his mother, Ann Marks, gathered 213 samples of chicken drumsticks from supermarkets, butcher shops and specialty stores in the New York area.
Now they and several scientists have published a study based on the project in the journal F1000 Research. The results were surprising.
Almost twice as many of the kosher chicken samples tested positive for antibiotic-resistant E. coli as did the those from conventionally raised birds. And even the samples from organically raised chickens and those raised without antibiotics did not significantly differ from the conventional ones.

That's from this post in the NYT.   

But, as the story reminds us, don't forget that:

The contamination does not mean the chicken is dangerous to eat. Generally, poultry is safe if handled carefully and cooked to an internal temperature of 165 degrees Fahrenheit, according to guidelines from the Agriculture Department

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What caused the rise of "factory farms"?

An interesting insight into one of the key factors that precipitated  the development of "factory farms" from Maureen Ogle's forthcoming book In Meat We Trust

World War II also drained American agriculture of its labor supply, a fact that, as we'll see later, would have a profound impact on the way farmers raised livestock. Even before the United States entered the war, factories had geared up to supply warring countries with materiel, and men and women decamped from the farm for jobs those factories provided. In Georgia alone, between 1937 and 1941, 30 percent of agricultural workers left farm for factory. The shortage worsened after the United States declared war in late 1941. Everywhere in rural America, from dairy farms to cattle-feeding operations, from corn belt hog lots to rural Georgia chicken coops, labor vanished. When labor cannot be found, humans make a logical decision: they replace it with machinery. Americans had a long-standing tradition of doing so. For most of the nineteenth century, for example, the country suffered chronic shortages of labor that fostered a national passion for mechanization and automation. So, too, in the 1940s. Factory farming already had plenty of support both in and out of agriculture, and World War II affirmed that enthusiasm. Nowhere was this more true than in the broiler industry

The argument reminds me of an episode described by Joan Thirsk in her book Alternative Agriculture: A History: From the Black Death to the Present Day.  The severe labor shortage caused by the black death was, according to Thirsk, a big factor motivating change in the agricultural sector in the 14th century.  

It is amazing how an exogenous shock like plague or war can change perspectives on the relative risk and benefits of new food and farm technologies.  

Reduced Meat Consumption and Environmental Impacts

It is often said by environmental groups and by many in the media that eating meat is one of the worst things one can do for the environment. 

Just to give a few examples, NPR ran a series of shows last year about this time about meat.  In one of these shows, it was said  that meat consumption has: 

more of an impact on the environment than any other food we eat.

and Dan Charles, the NPR correspondent wrote meat production:

It's one cause of deforestation, global warming, water pollution, a lot of environmental problems

To give another example, Bryan Walsh, writing for TIME magazine in 2008 said: 

It's true that giving up that average 176 lb. of meat a year is one of the greenest lifestyle changes you can make as an individual.

And, of course, one can find even more polemical arguments that make a similar case, such as Mark Bittman's TED talk.

One of the bases for these claims are the greenhouse gas emissions caused by livestock production.  Estimates widely vary, but one common stat cited from the UN FAO is that livestock are responsible for 18% of all global greenhouse has emissions (note, however, some mistakes in their calculations have come to light suggesting this figure is inflated).  Some environmental groups put the statistic much higher, saying livestock production is "tied to" 51% of global greenhouse emissions (a figure I don't find many credible scientists supporting).  But our own EPA estimates that within the US that ALL of agriculture only contributes 8% of total greenhouse gas emissions from 1990-2011, and only 6.9% in 2011.  Livestock, thus must be something less than this (it was estimated at around 3% by the EPA a few years ago).   

I mention all this because of several news reports I've heard in the past couple days, such as this one from the Washington Post, indicating:

Greenhouse gas emissions from power plants and other industrial facilities declined by 4.5 percent from 2011 to 2012 as utilities continued to switch from coal to natural gas to generate electricity and produced slightly less power overall, the Environmental Protection Agency reported Wednesday.

Greenhouse gas emissions from these sources have declined by 10 percent in the two years since the EPA began compiling the data in 2010.

A 4.5% reduction in 1 year and a 10% reduction in two years is a sizable change. According to the EPA data, power plants account for 31% of total U.S. greenhouse gas emissions emissions.  Thus, a 10% decrease in power plant emissions results in a 3.1% decrease in total US emissions.  

How much would one have to cut livestock production to achieve this same 3.1% decrease in total US emissions resulting from a switch to natural gas (primary brought about, in part, by fracking technology)?  Well, simple math shows that it if you hold the share of greenhouse gas emissions by livestock constant, you'd have to reduce livestock production by more than 100% if you believe the EPA's figure (that 3% of all GHG emissions are from livestock) or 17.2% if you believe the UN FAO's number (that 18% of all GHG emissions are from livestock) to achieve the same outcome that we've actually witnessed in the last two years in part through fracking.   Yes, reducing livestock production might reduce greenhouse gas emissions, but it seems much more has been cut by a switch from coal to gas than we can probably ever expect by reducing meat consumption.  

It is also useful to add that technological change in has led to reductions in greenhouse gas emissions in livestock production.  One study in the Journal of Animal Science by Jude Capper calculates technological change from 1997 to 2007 has reduced methane  emissions by about 23% and carbon emissions by about 20%.  Indeed, the executive summary from the EPA's report on changes in emissions indicates a major reduction in methane emissions has come from changes in livestock production (emphasis added):

CH4 emissions, which have decreased by 8.2 percent since 1990, resulted primarily from natural gas systems, enteric fermentation associated with domestic livestock, and decomposition of wastes in landfills.

Country of Origin Labeling Developments

A recent report from the Congressional Research Service has a nice discussion of the ongoing developments associated with mandatory country of origin labeling for meat: 

Less than one year after the COOL rules took effect, Canada and Mexico challenged them in the World Trade Organization (WTO), arguing that COOL has a trade-distorting impact by reducing the value and number of cattle and hogs shipped to the U.S. market, thus violating WTO trade commitments agreed to by the United States. In November 2011, the WTO dispute settlement (DS) panel found that (1) COOL treats imported livestock less favorably than like U.S. livestock (particularly in the labeling of beef and pork muscle cuts), and (2) COOL does not meet its objective to provide complete information to consumers on the origin of meat products.

This decade-long timeline of events was particularly helpful:

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