The article provides an excellent literature review of the case against local foods (even if they did miss my article on the topic with Bailey Norwood in Library of Economics and Liberty). But, ultimately, I find their case against the case for local foods unsatisfying.
In the end, they seem to conclude that the typical economic critique ignores power dynamics, externalities, and choice. In other words, "big food" is warped by capitalism that generates market power and externalities, and local food is a solution to these evils of capitalism.
They argue that local foods are not an either/or and they should exist alongside other markets in a way that increases availability and choice. I agree! As I've said many times: I'm not against local foods, I'm against bad arguments for local foods. And, I'm against government policies that subsidize local food activities. Why? Precisely for the reason opposite of that argued in this paper: I see no compelling evidence that local foods meaningfully internalize any of the important adverse externalities associated with food production. Moreover, I don't see the local food movement as one that is anti-capitalistic: precisely the opposite! Lots of competition, innovation, competition and entrepreneurship is at the heart of the movement. Sellers who don't offer high quality, affordable products won't be at the farmers market for long, and those that do will grow bigger. Finally, what is it about local foods that meaningfully changes the power dynamic that so worries these authors? Let's be frank, the local food movement has largely gained steam because it is desired by relatively rich, largely white Americans. As Charles Mann put it in a New York Times interview: