That's the title of my piece that ran today at TIME.com.
Here are a few excerpts:
We can be thankful that these folks have reminded us of the joys of cooking, of fresh food, and the long term health of our families and the environment. The resurgence of farmers’ markets and the availability of heirloom tomatoes, free-range eggs, and organics owe at least some of their success to the food movement they’ve backed.
But somewhere along the way, the values of convenience and thrift took a backseat.
Here is the conclusion:
If one is looking for good advice on how to eat and cook well, the food elite have a lot to offer. The trouble comes when their pronouncements take the form of dictates and regulation that we all must heed regardless of our tastes, incomes, or time constraints, and when they deviate telling good stories and divining tasty recipes to projecting the medical and economic consequences of federal food policy that impacts us all.