This piece by Rachel Laudan is a masterful discussion of the ahistorical fascination with "natural" food. She gives an interesting historical account of the evolution of cooking and eating, and make the case that industrialization was the great food equalizer - that the view that "natural" food was good for the poor is hogwash.
Here's one excerpt:
She points out the condescension in the idea that other people should toil away to make their artisanal ethnic foods so that we can take pleasure in them. Laudan concludes with some of the following thoughts: